Sunday, August 16, 2015

Project Runway Season 14, Episode 2: When You Care Enough to Glue Very Best

Hello there from Vacationland, USA, Project Runway fans!

Last day of vacation and your blogger is so happy to be returning home to a familiar cable system and reliable wifi.

It's a promotional challenge!
"Promotional challenge...yay...so much fun..."
There are still too many of you....
Instructions were easy. The materials for the challenge were found in the Hallmark card store. It looks like someone stripped the store of fabrics and christmas ornaments.

We'll never see someone make a garment out of Hallmark's Star Trek 2015 Ornament collection.
Leaving only cards. And as we learned from the nice Hallmark lady, cards tell a story. A story about our feelings.

Happy nut!
Speaking of feelings and stories, one story that emerged was the idiotic response that Blake made when Swapnil announced that the heavy duty machines were threaded in the sewing room. Let's go to some expert analysis...

"Blake, I don't understand 'Indian' any better than you do, but your comment makes me wonder if you understand the difference between a language and an accent."
Which could end up being a BIG PROBLEM....

"Are you not going to understand my accent, either?"
Rather than vilifying Blake Patterson for his ignorance before the reality TV cameras, let us hope, instead, that his listening comprehension improves...and fast!

Anyway, this silly dust up was a distraction from the real feel-good story of the week....

Swapnil has scissors!!!
Designers struggled with the challenge and the materials.


"Designers, the glue gun is your friend. Use it thoughtfully."

Ashley Tisdale was the guest judge this week. She's an actress and fashion blogger. Fashion blogger? Does everyone have a fashion blog now?

But we all know who should have been the guest judge this week....

Maxine
She's going to be my guest judge this week as we break down the looks we liked and the looks we didn't. Take it away, Maxine!


The Looks we Liked

Jake Wall, I still don't know who you are, but Tim Gunn said your outfit looked like roofing tiles and you ignored him. You got away with it this time. Actually, using all that black was pretty smart. I have no idea how sloppy the construction is. The color hides all that.
Kelly Dempsey took a chance by making fringe. This could have gone completely Polynesian, but the contrasting, angular crop top saved it from becoming too costumey. I understand that everything is being "hoodied" these days, but I thought the hood was an unnecessary design element. It's as if she doesn't know whether she wants to go to the nightclub or to dance class.
Lindsay Creek captured Heidi's length of the moment.  But if you're going to feature jewelry on the back of the outfit, style the model's hair up.
Suburban mom chic!
See the square hanging from the collar? IT'S AN ENVELOPE! How cute is that? Thank you, Hanmaio, for being so playful! Your shoe choices, however...are beyond weird.
Swapnil's almost win was very intelligent. First, he could have done both pieces if he had enough flowers and time to make the top and bottom in the same way. He didn't have those materials so he was forced to design a contrasting top. He used the pinstriping to create an edge to the whole ensemble. Pairing it with boots raised the sophistication level. Smart! It almost got him a big win.
Edmund Newton was inspired by a bridal card and went for broke creating an iconic look fit for a Hallmark card. Where did he get those large sheets of paper?  
Here's Edmund opening up Hallmark bags.
He used the logo as a subtle pattern, too. All these things added up to the perfect use of unconventional materials. And he made a flower, which made Zac Posen smile. If we ignore the fact that you can see the model's derriere every time she took a step and don't look too close to see how those petals are joined to the bodice, this is the obvious winning look.

Blake Patterson is the one we all love to hate, isn't he? And there was much discussion in the chat room last week about use of the cards and how many cards constituted "use." Because, this is clearly a muslin dress. Covering the muslin in glitter helped, apparently. What the judges loved was that the cards were a prominent and intricate part of the dress. He used them as a textile and not an embellishment. This is a subtle distinction that I'm pretty sure the judges didn't use in prior unconventional materials challenges. I'll let some other blogger figure that one out. Project Runway has a long history of inconsistent rules. 
One rule always stands out: if the design is successful, the judges overlook a lot of shortcomings!

The Looks We Didn't Love....

Take it away, Maxine!


Candice Cuoco was safe with the judges, but upon closer inspection, the bodice and the back of the outfit are rather messy. Shiny materials are a challenge to make look good. You know going in, you'll get points for cohesiveness but the risk you run is a less-than-perfect execution.
I don't know if it's lighting or execution, but the back of Laurie Underwood's outfit looks better than the front. She shape is too much like a lampshade and the bodice looks like a mess of compromises with an unforgiving material.

Gabriella Aruda's look just pissed me off. She had such a promising technique of shredding the card material onto the muslin that I thought she had potential to make a run for first place. Then, we began to see the pattern, which one of the designers gratuitously compared to a part of a woman's anatomy. Why she didn't produce a more abstract pattern is beyond me. Even stripes would have been better.

But that's not the biggest sin here. She started off with a muslin underlay, which means she had full control of the shape of the dress. Why, then, is the neckline so high in the front and awkward in the back? What sort of fashion statement does a woman make with a rounded skirt past her knees in the front and just barely covering her butt in the back? This is a mess. The judges did Gab no favors by making this safe. She could have benefited from some hard critique.
 

So, Amanda Perla...I know it's hard hearing that your skirt looks like a piƱata and that there's too much going on, but you needed to hear those things. It's definitely no fun being dangled for a possible elimination, but you needed to hear that when you're in a design hole, sometimes the solution is not to throw everything against the wall.

Amanda started off with the bodice and wanted to do a look with the lace and colored underlay. That was executed successfully. The skirt solution was a complete compromise as a result of a lack of time and materials. This is completely understandable. Where she failed was in just giving up and putting the skirt and top together without any sort of unifying element, first and foremost. Second, the shape of the hemline looks like a total mistake. Third, the cards in the front look like an apron. Had she more thoughtfully executed the skirt, I think she would have been safe instead of almost off...and maybe we would have seen this one instead....
What the hell is this? The model looks like Joseph Poli stuffed her into a paper bag. No, you don't get points for an unconventional shape...not when it's clear that you are letting the material master the design instead of the other way around.
Or maybe Merline's could have been in the running for worst. What seemed like an intelligent approach to architectural design last week now seems like an obsession. Panels in front and back of dress do not = "architectural." It's a gimmick and not a good one. The creases exclaim to the world that THIS IS A PAPER DRESS. And the rest of it is a glue gun mish-mash.
When Ashley Tipton said she wanted to make a poncho, I got the shivers. Those never work out on Project Runway.
"They worked out for me!"
Why, yes, Amanda, they did. But back to Ashley. The judges said that had she not had immunity, her outfit would have been disqualified because all she did was glue a pattern of cards onto a muslin outfit. She did not USE the materials as a textile-like overlay. That is different from using the materials like an embellishment. And for all this use of muslin, what did she get? A garment so stiff the model could barely walk. A real miss.

I will be so glad when the world gets over it's collective love affair with putting hoods on everything. Poor David Gianpiccolo! I so loved typing your name and now I won't anymore! David used a plastic embellishment from a card and decorated a muslin hoodie. I don't know if that was a misunderstanding of the rules or if he was so fixated on using the letters in this way that he simply forgot that the unconventional materials were supposed to dominate the design.
One way this could have worked would have been to alternate strips of the muslin with paper material. That would have made the sleeves and hood nearly impossible to execute. Who knows? Clearly, once he set his sights on an outfit with a hood and sleeves, he upped the difficulty ante so high, he could no longer use the paper effectively.
David's story really touched me and I wanted to save some blog space for that, before I close. The United States has made huge progress this year in securing the right to marry for all regardless of sexual orientation. Part of this has lead to increased acceptance in the general community of differences in orientation. The military and even the Boy Scouts now accept gay people.

But that doesn't mean that families still accept them. As a parent, I can tell you that children are the biggest challenge to one's belief system. You have a child and you have certain expectations of what that child is going to be. If you aren't careful, those expectations can easily develop into an extension of your own identity. Parents are always in danger of feeling like a failure if their child does not meet their expectations.

Parents are driven to instill a moral code and sense of compassion in our children. We want them to be good citizens and team players...but that line is sometimes so subtle and sometimes we fixate on a behavioral detail instead of the big picture. It's not unlike using a part of a card instead of the whole card in a design contest... That's the sort of thing that can move a parent to "disowning" a child. Allowing children to question your world view is one of the most humbling and daunting aspects of parenting. It can also be the most rewarding, if you let it.

Replace the word "gay" with "depressed" or "autistic" or any other word you wish and you'll see that parents everywhere with children who are different all struggle with their challenges in "Project Parenthood." Before we go beating everyone up for falling short, let us remember that the enterprise we call "childhood" is really less than 200 years old--in the Western world, anyway. Prior to that, children were considered "little adults." The whole notion of "child development" is still brand new, as is the whole consideration of mental health and so many other things. We're collectively toddling around in this new world of the inner person, so cut people some slack as they're busy evolving.

Which brings us back to the greeting card, doesn't it?  Isn't that a weird custom? Letting someone else's words and pictures express your feelings? As a company, Hallmark has been evolving just like the rest of us. Remember a few years ago when Hallmark released this Christmas ornament?


Ellen DeGeneres and Jon Stewart had a field day. Has definition of "gay" become exclusively about sexual orientation? It was a big whiff for Hallmark and threatened their standing with the gay community...a huge and growing market for them.

But they figured it out.
Hallmark's first gay Father's Day card.
Remember, the challenge to INTEGRATE the unconventional material into the ENTIRE DESIGN. 

It's a silly, reality TV design show, but Project Runway is always at its best when it makes you think about the struggles that creative people have in the real world because we have those struggles too.

I'm stepping off my soapbox to tell you that next week's challenge is IN TEAMS! 

"Team challenge....yay...so much fun...."
It's on a cruise ship so the Project Runway promotional juggernaut marches on!

See you next week for more blog fun and check out the Blogging Project Runway chatroom on Thursday at 9 pm EDT for live chat during the show!

Saturday, August 8, 2015

Project Runway Season 14: Back to the Garden

GREETINGS PROJECT RUNWAY FANS!  

It's been way too long, hasn't it?  Once again, it's Project Runway season and it's time for me to fire up my long-neglected blog.

Why does Project Runway always seem to start when I'm on vacation in a place with limited cable TV and Internet coverage? Don't they know I have a blog to do?



Sixteen designers...these early challenges always overwhelm me. I make up names and mix people up every year until the competition gets down to about ten or so.

"We handled 17 contestants by splitting them into two groups according to polls."
We tip things off in Madison Square Garden, which is neither square nor a garden. Discuss amongst yourselves. I was hoping for a challenge where the contestants had to create garments from discarded NY Knicks uniforms....

We'd like to see your personal design vision rendered in NY Knicks blue and orange.
Instead, the crew scattered bolts of fabric from Mood throughout the stands and the designers scrambled for them.  I would have plowed through Lifetime Network footage just to find the perfect screenshots, but I have limited Internet bandwidth in my vacation rental. Anyway, why go through screenshots of scrambling designers when you can look at this instead?

"Heidi, I don't remember anyone standing in front of LeBron James posting shots to Instagram when he took his free throws."
Before we dive into this first episode, it's always nice to set the stage a bit.

Try, try again

This season features a large number of contestants that have tried to get into Project Runway before and a few that have made a sideline career of trying out for a spot. Edmund Newton has been trying since 2008. Amanda Perda was eliminated from the first episode of Season 9.  One could argue that the Project Runway producers keep returning to the same, dwindling pool of designers, but one could also argue that the designers who try out and fail come back much improved the next time.

It worked out for me!
The stakes are getting smaller...

From the Lifetime website:

The winner of "Project Runway" will receive $100,000 to launch his or her business and a Celebrity Cruises® modern luxury vacation for two to almost anywhere in the world.  Sally Beauty will supply a year’s worth of products and the opportunity to consult with Sally Beauty to create a limited edition “FingerPaints” nail color collection. Travel and hotel accommodations to inspiring destinations around the world will be provided by Best Western International and from Mary Kay, the winner will receive an entire year’s worth of beauty products for their fashion shows and professional makeup artist services for their debut show. The winner also receives a 2015 Lexus RC 350 and a complete sewing and crafting studio from Brother Sewing and Embroidery. The winning designer and model will also receive a fashion spread in Marie Claire magazine.  

$100,000 free and clear sounds like a lot of money.  After taxes, however, it's far less.  Just keep this in mind, it was the same amount of money awarded to designers in the 2004 series premiere! Adjusting this amount for inflation, the prize should be about $133,000. Considering that PR 11 and 12 that ran in 2013 both offered $150,000, this amount is becoming small potatoes over time.


Are the contestants even paying attention?

Three designers showed up without tool kits. This means no scissors, measuring tape, rotary cutters, seam guides, french curve, ruler, thimble, hem marker, chalk, marking tape, pins....nothing. Two of them had baggage issues and one just flat-out misunderstood the rules. Fourteen seasons have passed and we have never a designer show up without tools.  OK...in previous seasons, we had designers with inadequate tool kits--Michael Costello didn't bring a ruler, for example. This is the first time we've had multiple designers completely fail to prepare.

Swapnil Shinde, one of the kitless people, is left handed, for goodness sakes! Left handed people should never be separated from their scissors! I don't know if they will get a chance to purchase tools at Mood (depleting their fabric budget) or not. Who knows if Mood even carries left handed scissors. Other designers were willing to lend them tools for the first challenge....but will that generosity continue...especially since all three of them made it to the next round!

Kits are for amateurs.
Makes me wonder what's going to happen with one of those challenges that has convoluted details.

Also, even after eleven years and fourteen seasons, the producers have managed to find a few people who have never watched the show. This amazes me.

All this adds up to the question we ask perennially on many of these recap blogs....After 14 seasons, has Project Runway run out of gas?

Many of us hope not. We love the show and many of us follow ex-PR designers on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. We root for them and want them to do well. When someone wears a Bert Keeter, a Michael Costello Leanne Marshall or a Christian Siriano on the runway, we cheer. Entrepreneurs like Chloe Dao and Valerie Mahen are making it happen. We'll see if there's a future as season 14 unfolds.  But at the first sign of trouble, the sky is falling! You read it here first.

And now...the Outfits!

I don't have Fox News polls to tell me how to split up the group of 16, so I'll just put them in categories by my impression as I saw each outfit walk the runway. In each, some looks fail for me and others succeed.  In these early stages, competitors need only be good enough to make it past the judges' scrutiny, so there's no point in parsing out every critique. Why some designers take risks at this point is beyond me. Because the smart kids are playing it safe, it adds up to a whole lot of boring but nice outfits as everyone tries to stay with the herd.

I Can Buy This in the Store Now

Joseph Poli, I swear I could walk into a mall and buy this every outfit. And the skirt would fit better.
I can't believe Swapnil Shinde flew around the world without his scissors to design a dress I could buy at Macy's. 
Jake Wall, I think I went to a wedding recently where one of the guests was wearing this exact dress.
Lindsay Creel, this is hanging in H&M right now!
Gabriella Aruda, this is a Vogue pattern gone horribly wrong. In fact, I may have screwed up this very pattern myself!
You Tried Something Interesting....But....

Kelly Dempsey, I like your style and attention to detail. This just didn't wow the judges enough, but I want to see more.
Laurie Underwood...that slit is insane. The whole thing's too tight.
David Giampiccolo, I love what you were trying to do with the patterns, but the shape was completely shapeless. David has an eye for patterns. Can he translate that to a garment that is flattering?


Merline Labissiere is from Haiti, so I was expecting something ethnocentric. Way to show me something. She delivered a very smart, sophisticated design. The seams are amazing. In better fabric, this would be fresh and modern. She's driving Laurie Underwood crazy and everyone underestimates her. That's a good place to be.

Hanmaio Yang, your personal style is androgynous and there's nothing wrong with that. When you realized you only had one day for the first challenge, you should have cut the jacket differently so that you didn't have to fit the sleeves. The minute you cut armscyes (and isn't that a wonderful word, armcye?)this outfit was headed straight to Dorothy Zbornak-ville. You don't even know who that is!


Candice Cuoco, there's a lot going on here, so I'm going to blow it up larger.  The fit is solid, even with the weird trim work in the bodice. If you had been able to maintain a consistent width in the detailing (instead of the wide piece through the middle) it might have worked better. The peplum looks like a half-executed idea. Perhaps the left section should have been wider and continued just a bit farther up the waist.

Edmund Newton, you thought of everything. Short, tight dress for Heidi, long billowy train for Nina Garcia, pop of color for the guest judge. You forgot to add something for Zac Posen...like an actual style idea! We've seen this before, Edmund.
The Gathering

Ashley Tipton, I'm not a fan of the "paper bag waist" mostly because my waist is thicker than it used to be. Without the contrasting print in the top and the open back, this would have been a standard look. After Tim's withering critique and a few, cathartic tears, you rallied to the finish.
Blake Patterson, you've got to back up that self-confidence with some substance and this isn't that substance. I don't think the canary yellow fabric pairs well with the print. Also, a busy pattern isn't the best thing to drape and gather all over the place. It looks like instead of actually cutting the dress to fit the model, you just gathered it here and there to define a waistline. The front looks like she's hiking it up and she isn't.


Duncan Chambers, you broke our hearts. I'm not blaming the judges. I'm not even blaming Tim Gunn for encouraging you to continue with the drape. I'm blaming you for picking the peach charmeuse in the first place. You're a menswear designer from New Zealand making your first woman's outfit and you pick the peach charmeuse? Charmeuse is evil. You can't sew it without puckered seams. If you start draping it, you can fall under the spell of the drape monster. Soon, your garment looks like the inside of a cheap coffin. And when it looks that way, perhaps you'd maybe take out a drape or two...if you dare risk the fabric snagging and running....
In short, you're doomed.
"Duncan Chambers, was God speaking to you when you picked that peach charmeuse? Because God is speaking to me through that outfit right now and it he isn't saying anything nice..."
That Megyn Kelly...always so harsh! So it's back to New Zealand for Duncan, where, no doubt, where he'll make happy buckled pants for hipster rugby players and never lay his hands on charmeuse of any color ever again.

Ashley's the winner and has immunity next week. 


Merline can keep annoying Laurie...


Hanmaio can keep being a "happy nut" and


Swapnil can keep looking for left handed scissors.

Next week is the 



challenge.

In that spirit, let's give our competitors some Hallmark style encouragement....


Until next week!

All Project Runway photos are from the Lifetime website.  Fox News photos are from the Fox News website.