Sunday, September 11, 2011

Project Runway Season 9, Episode 7: Can't We All Just Get Along?

Greetings, Project Runway Fans!

We're still sopping up things at Casa di Tirare le fila...  We've had a solid week of rain, courtesy of Tropical Storm Lee.  So as I scrape off the mold and mildew, let's get to work on this week's episode.

I think the title of the episode, "Can't We All Just Get Along?" says it all.  Namely, it says nothing about this week's challenge.  It is an admission by Bunim-Murray that Project Runway is all about the drama.  First, we get ANOTHER team challenge.  Second, we get Bert and Josh, two of the strongest personalities this season, on the same team.  Third, we reunite Becky with her abuser, Josh.  This was jury-rigged drama from the get-go.

I wonder if the designers realized they were being played.  There have been moments in Project Runway and other contest shows where contestants overcame such blatant adversarial march-ups...one would think out of spite for the producers.  But rather than rise up against their producer overlords, these designers held true to form and bickered throughout the show, to their demise.

This week's episode was a commercial for the Intel-HP TouchSmart ThinkPad Personal Computing Device.

"Designers, let's book a vacation on Expediocity, shall we?"

Designers were to use the TouchPad SmartThink device to compose a fabric pattern.  Then, they'd go to the HP PrintSmart Touch Devices to print out their fabrics.  Of the five looks, three of them had to use designer-made fabrics.  Then they'd go to the HP VideoSmart cameras and record and edit a background video for their runway show.  They also had to choose music.  In two days.  Easy.

But first, a burst of inspiration from a world-famous designer.


Betsey Johnson has been influencing popular culture since the 60's, when she hung out with Edie Sedgewick, Lou Reed, and Andy Warhol.  Her second runway collection was a flop, but now she boasts 45 stores throughout the world.  She survived breast cancer in 2002. But all you need to know is at the age of 69, she can still execute a cartwheel at the end of every runway show.

She talked to the designers about what goes into a good show and she showed the video from her latest runway show, filmed on the Brooklyn Bridge.

These little visits from fashion nobility are always full of hints.  Look at the fabulous print on Betsey's outfit.  I wonder if any of the designers focused on that.  It was a print of photographs superimposed on each other.  The scale was big enough for you to figure out what they were, but small enough to blend in at a distance and let the design stand out.  That should have been the balance to strive for in this challenge.

If that wasn't driven home, you had another outfit in the collection that should have made the point.


It was as if Betsey submitted her entry for this week's challenge.  She would have won, hands down.

Oh and for good measure, I'm throwing in the outfit that Josh Christensen should have designed last week.


Sorry Josh.

It's a good thing Betsey is a designer and not a surgeon.  Look at where the heart is!

When she left, the teams caucused to come up with their themes, motifs and fabric design.  Then they left to film their video and found a bit of time for a trip to Mood...yadda, yadda, yadda.

So this week's challenge is all about the easy-to-use technology from HP.  Only, Bert managed to demonstrate how un-user friendly the printer was to anyone over the age of 45.

"*&%#! @#*&$%' printer..."
Perhaps the Bunim-Murray producers forgot the color ink cartridges because all of the fabric designs were in black and white.

I could go on and on about the drama, but that's not why I watch Project Runway.  I watch if for the designs, so let's get straight to those.


Team "Nuts and Bolts"

Viewers could tell right away that the team of Josh, Laura, Becky, Kim and Bert was doomed to failure.  Josh was brooding over the fact that the teams would not have leaders, so he couldn't impose his ideas on the others by fiat--which is the only way he relates to people.  Laura wasn't being very serious.  Kim had checked out.  Bert, long ago figured out that cooperation gets you nowhere and Becky worried about how this dysfunctional crew would produce something fabulous.  She needn't have worried.  There was never any hope of that.

Team Nuts and Bolts came up with the "clocks" theme for their fabrics and video, mostly because every other idea, from "Female Village People" (thanks, Josh) and "Sexy Amoebas" (thanks, Laura) was a disaster.  Actually, I was rooting for the "Sexy Amoeba"s because then, Bert would have been challenged to operate the HP SmartMicroscope attachment.  Wouldn't you have loved to have seen that?

Anyway, they ran with clocks and chose clock, number, word and cog motifs.


Designers were allowed to supplement their fabric designs with other fabrics from Mood.  Kimberly, not desiring to use any of the designer fabric, chose a fabric that Tim described as looking like a "shiny poodle."


So let's see how they did!

Josh came up with this outfit using the wordy fabric he designed.


Typical Josh, he tossed every gimmick known to man into this outfit.  Starting from the top:  
   - two-toned jacket with cog motif opening and back detail
   - cog detail on the sleeve cuffs.
   - pants with time referenced word fabric
   - cog detail on the pockets
   - tabs that hang down from the pant hem along the instep of the foot.


Frankly, the only thing he didn't do was line the jacket with his word fabric.

Kim completely checked out of the challenge.  



As a feeble attempt at cohesion, she used the same blue that Josh used in his top and created a cog belt.  The most interesting part of the outfit is the skirt.  Unfortunately, while it hung daintily on the static dress form, when a real, live model began walking in it, it crunched up almost all the way to her crotch.

Bert, managed to take the stiff, cotton fabric that bore the designers' patterns and managed to make an arresting dress.


It was just a tad too long.  Unfortunately, he used Becky's pattern.  Note the huge scale of the pattern.  Your eye is drawn to the cogs and doesn't notice the zipper treatment on the shoulder.  It didn't have to be this way.  Becky could have scaled this design smaller--like it came out of the HP printer.


Too bad, because the back of Bert's dress had some nice "walking away" details.  With a better print, this could have been amazing.


Laura did a jumpsuit with a cog-shaped waist treatment using Josh's fabric.


The zipper treatment at the front was interesting.


The back was sort of interesting, too.  It's hard to tell how well made this is.  I thought the fit on the model was a little slouchy and loose.

And Becky.


All we saw as viewers was the uninteresting, yellow top and a very simple skirt with words.  Michael Kors immediately saw the word "CANCELED" on the crotch and declared that "no woman wants to wear 'CANCELED' on her crotch."

It's not as if she didn't try.  She tried to do fancy elbow slash treatments on the jacket.

 I note that only two of the fabric designs were used.  Laura's numbers were rejected because they made Becky's skirt too schoolmarmish.  The skirt looked weird in her own cog fabric, too.  So everyone ended up using Josh's word fabric and it scuttled them.   If only their motifs had been smaller....no one paid attention to Betsey Johnson.

So for her outfit of separates, two of which had designs that could have been found at any department store, Becky was given the Auf Wiedersehen this week.

Team "Chaos"
 
The team relied on Anthony Ryan's graphic artist training to both coalesce on a motif--Rorcharch (ink blot) tests and a theme-- chaos.  So with scribbles, lines and dots, they pulled together a cohesive show against a dynamic video backdrop that highlighted a busy New York City.

Anthony Ryan showcased his motif using plain fabric to which ink blots were applied.  

 
Bryce used the same lined fabric, along with scribble fabric and made a pair of killer shorts.



Too bad there wasn't more to that top, because those shorts were one of my favorite garments on the runway.

Olivier showed off his mad tailoring skills this week.


That jacket was pretty fabulous, no?


Even from behind.  However, the challenge focused on the print and in the end, it was a fabulous jacket dropped on top of a pair of mediocre print pants.

Viktor took Rorchach motif that was suitable for sportswear and created a sophisticated and chic evening gown.


But in the end, the judges rightly chose Anya's garment which blended the prints with an intricate and clever design.


Each tonal gradation is a different pattern.  The patterns emphasize the seaming and shaping of the dress.


Even the back was well done.  Anya paid attention to Betsey and she also has a keen eye for prints, as we saw last week.  Well done and well deserved.

Before we close, I wanted to note that this week is Fashion Week in New York.

Ten years ago, we watched helplessly as a group of religious extremists took over the nation of Afghanistan.  They beat women in the streets for wearing western fashions and forced them into burkas.  And on September, 11, they hijacked our nation's aviation system, sending planes into the twin towers of the World Trade Center, a field in Pennsylvania and the Pentagon.  

Fashion may seem like a frivolous luxury.  But fashion is life-changing.  A simple pair of pants liberated women all over the world and put them on par with men. The industry of fashion has turned women designers and models into international superstars and multi-millionaires.  

It is fitting that Fashion Week 2011 is happening amidst the backdrop of the events of 9/11.  Life goes on.  New York goes on.  And women still wear pants in Afghanistan.

This week, I leave you with the princess of prints, Diane von Furstenburg, who knows something about how to put prints together in an interesting way.  The theme and motif is worth wearing.


Sunday, September 4, 2011

Project Runway Season 9, Episode 6: The Art of the Matter

Hey there, Project Runway fans!  It's time to recap and analyze another episode.

This week's episode was an avant garde challenge!  Exciting, huh?


No, not so much?

How about you, Tim?


Looks like you're busy chasing Swatch through Mood Fabrics.

I was trying to bite designers who were going for the chiffon, but Tim thwarted my plans!
Avant Garde.  Ever since the Christian Siriano season, we've had some sort of avant garde challenge.  What is "avant garde?"  It's the intersection of fashion with art, pushing fashion ahead (avant) of the current trends (garde.)

In other words, these are the clothes that pop singers wear to pick up their MTV Video Music Awards.




For inspiration, the designers were teamed up with a child artist.  I was hoping for a standard, garden variety grade school so that designers would come up with something like this




but instead, they were teamed up with students attending the prestigious Harlem School of Art.


Because I was attending to my own talented children this week, I tuned in a little late.  I was hoping that the designers were presented with a painting chosen via Heidi's dreaded BUTTON BAG, but no.  They were teamed up with an artist and WORKED WITH THE ARTIST ON A PAINTING.  I emphasize this because it's handy information for later, when you will see that most designs bear no relationship to their painting whatsoever.  But I'm getting ahead of myself.

Let's start with the designer who drove me the most batty this week.  Oliv(i)er.

This week a student tried to help our weird accented friend from Ohio overcome his fear of color with a little art therapy.

"Tonyalee, I don't think I can do it.  I can't touch the color.  It makes me uneasy."

"It's very easy OliVER.  Just move the brush up and down.  That's it!  You've got it!"
But alas, when Oliv(i)er went to design his dress, he did not see the colorful painting he created with Tonyalee....



He came up with this.


To me, it resembles that morning after moment when you throw the sheet over yourself, in your chiffon nightie and stumble across the floor to your pile of clothes.   We've all been there, but do we really need to see this on the runway?  And if you wore this to the VMAs, would everyone think you were pushing the fashion envelope or would they think your tryst with John Mayer totally messed up your schedule?


This man is Kenneth Cole.


You know who he is because if you're human and live in the developed world, you have worn something he designed.  I just point him out because he thought the top part of Oliv(i)er's outfit was well designed.


Presented with a similar type of painting, Viktor chose a similar path, but to more successful results.  But he still drove me just as crazy because he took this magnificent painting

This was one of my favorites.
and reduced it to this.


He put a lot more work into his garment and the effect on the runway was quite stunning


But it was not quite avant garde enough to capture the imagination of the judges.  He was safe, however, because he produced a well-made dress.


The editors at Bunim-Murray didn't dwell on the actual composition of Laura Katheen and Kai's painting, but according to Laura, this rather Georgia O'Keefe-like image


was actually two roses with thorns that were sprayed with water after she painted them.  So while the eye is drawn to the white petal shapes at the top, Laura had peach petals, green stems and thorns on her mind when she created this


Nope.  I'm not seeing it.  I don't know why the judges were enamored with it.  The "juxtaposition of 'hard and soft'" wasn't even genuine.  The "boning" they saw under the dress was actually strips of dark, green fabric.  It was a pretty dress, but it would make Katy Perry look like a prom queen.  She would demand that Laura install some LED lights inside to make it flashy.


Becky and her artist came up with a painting that was out of this world...


She fixated on the little green blocks at the top.  She produced a respectable runway dress


but was it avant garde?  Not really...however...where have I seen the blocks on the shoulder before?
Oh yeah...on the Today Show...

"Stupid Jean-Charles de Castelbajac!  I told him to put the dice on the RIGHT shoulder!"
Well, if Katy Perry can wear blocks on her shoulder on the Today Show, I guess they ARE avant garde after all.  Well done, Becky!

Kim disappointed me the most this week.  She's got mad construction skills but seemed to get all lost in the imagery when presented with this challenging painting...


Tim talked her out of the feathered sleeves and headdress.  "You don't want Michael to call this a 'Hiawatha Moment' do you?"  All that was left was a little leather dress.


It was probably the best she could do with what she was given.  Was it avant garde?  Hell if I know.  The judges seemed to think it was good enough for safe, but not the top three.  I would have put this ahead of Laura Kathleen's, but no one cares what I think.  I don't have a fancy title at Marie Clare magazine like SOME people...

"You talking to me?  Listen, if Nina makes one false move, I am so taking over!"
Right, Zanna...if that's your real name.



Bert, Bert, Bert.....

The accusation here is that Bert is stuck in the glory days of Studio 54 with Scaasi and Halston, but I think we need to move the clock forward about 7-8 years to 1984.....

Can't touch this.
Yeah, he embraced the inspiration piece



so much so that he nearly cut it apart and adhered it to the outfit.



It was as if MC Hammer rolled around in some Colorforms.




Now we get to my favorites...not exactly because they triumphed in producing the perfect, avant garde dress in 2 days with $300 and a rabid dog chasing them through Mood Fabrics.  These designers let their inspiration piece bring out the best in them instead of letting it get the best of them.

This week, Bryce received quite a bit of snide remarks from the other designers for what they perceived to be a poorly constructed piece.  Perhaps...but then again, some of those same designers thought that Bert's outfit was amazing.

Audrey's painting with Bryce was haunting.  The editors had a whole lot of fun playing around with the eyes, even superimposing them on the runway model at one point...


Bryce resisted any temptation to take a literal interpretation of the images in the piece and instead, constructed a garment around the theme.


You can't see it from this pose, but the top is constructed as a sort of straightjacket.  The model had some fun with it.


I actually thought this was the piece that used its inspiration in the most innovative way.  Was it for the win?  Not really, due to some serious construction issues.  But it was a good use of two days, materials and inspiration and kept Bryce safe for another week.


Anya found some sewing skills this week and constructed a pretty sophisticated dress.  AJ, her artist, had a vision of desolation and burning trees and from this


she created this.


I think that's pretty magnificent and should have ranked right up there at the top, instead of Laura Kathleen, but what do I know?


Another example of this is Josh McKinney, who almost pulled off a repeat win this week.  Patrice painted a vision of a tree with a strong trunk and deep roots.


Josh M was really challenged by this.  He dwelled on the strong horizon line and eventually saw the blend of red and green into brown.  Brown, like a standard tree trunk.  He decided to use neoprene (too bad Nina wasn't there this week to praise the neoprene!) and paint it like a tree trunk.  Faux bois, is the term...you may recall Malon Breton getting booted out for trying to create faux bois with fabric stitching a few seasons back...   Josh had some fun with it, painting "carved" initials into the side to honor his mom, who recently died of ovarian cancer.

The tree skirt itself was not enough to take it over the top, so Josh created an exuberant, fiery ruffled top.


Unfortunately, the "Bride of Frankenstein/Stevie Nicks" hair was a little too much for the judges.  Once again, Josh M got docked for his poor styling.

The winner of this week's Project Runway challenge is one, lucky devil.

It was only because his portrayal of the inspiration piece was so clever, that he was able to win with what is proving to be his standard, go-to silhouette.

Anthony Ryan and his artist painted self-portraits.



And Anthony focused on the brush strokes to produce this.


Through half the challenge, he was applying orange and blue swatches to the chiffon underlay.  The artist kept begging him to use more green.  At one point he said, "Maybe I should lose the orange."  Tim agreed that he should lose the orange.  Dude, you're colorblind!  Never make color decisions without running them past a committee!  Luckily, his artist was able to steer him back to the "color story" as designers like to call it.

The same Kenneth Cole who designs everything we wear and thinks that Oliv(i)er produced a wonderful top, began to pick apart Anthony's dress.

Yes, the brush strokes were tacked on...


rather haphazardly...


and the whole thing looks unfinished...


and didn't we see that neckline in the pet store challenge?  (Heidi and Michael mentioned this in the critique, but once again, those comments were edited out.)


But still, someone has to win this challenge and it might as well be the person who designed the dress that Zanna most wanted to wear when deposing Nina from her throne at Marie Claire.

Which leaves Josh Christensen for the auf.  Now I would have auf-ed Oliv(i)er for his heinous, walk-of-shame dress...but the judges, instead, gave it to an outfit conceived by a union between a cocktail waitress and a werewolf.


Now, the artist very adeptly pointed out that the key design element in this painting is the wolf's exposed rib cage.  Alexander McQueen knew how to use a rib cage for inspiration.


Had Josh gone there, he would have been called out as being too referential.  So damned if he does, damned if he doesn't, he didn't.  And after some careful editing, he was left with this.


This made the mistake of being unflattering on the model and bearing little relationship to anything in the painting.  And even though the same shrug was praised last week for being so innovative and edgy, this week, it was just, plain ugly and Josh was, once again, booted off.

And once again, we are left to ponder the subject of avant garde.  I leave you with Alexander McQueen, who, to me, will always have the last word on this subject.  A few weeks ago, I spent a wonderful afternoon at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, touring his "Savage Beauty" exhibit.  There were examples of exquisite workmanship with rare and unusual materials.  But I leave you with a simple piece that lets its shapes speak for itself.  It is neither ugly nor beautiful.  It is provocative.  It is avant garde.


Until next week!